一件连衣裙超详细从制版到制作的全过程
http://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267796544c1e6495http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902677402d882b8102先看款式，腰部横向分割连衣裙，无领无袖，重点变化是透明面料拼接。没有省，腰部收褶抽松紧带。款式制版http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267766c54cb528f8先看上身http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902677426854211362http://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/152249026772465f2f6fca0http://p9.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267789fae9a40f4ahttp://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902677579b8c656447胸围放量就按原型10厘米不动http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267739128dbc3a0e这次前片确定完胸围后不向下做垂线，直接取原型形状即可，把原型前腰省做打褶处理。http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902677569d2fc7c83f这样前后片除去净腰围，剩下的就是打褶量，现在明线前片打的褶多。为了使前后片打褶量保持差不多一致，现在可以把后片侧缝向外放，我放了差不多4厘米。可略上翘成直角http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/152249026774978f2f18c18http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267735e9f3145b34http://p9.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902677804b92b0c4eb因为我给做衣服的人胸部丰满，我把前片腰节加长了1厘米，以达到整体平衡。http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902678239d709eb0cb然后如图尺寸画出领窝，具体尺寸我忘了，大家自己确定好了。http://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/152249026775097d096369d画顺领窝。http://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267747f2e870dbde画出搭门2.4左右http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902678751fbc67aa00肩宽我向内收了1厘米。袖笼我想小点，所以我在前后袖笼最低点都上提1.5厘米。http://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267759bcda9b3a74然后如图画顺袖笼http://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/152249026779115ce48ec28http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/152249026789207dd67ae05现在上半身版型画好了。然后确定分割的位置。http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902678315eb6fcf12b分割位置根据自己喜好来定，后背可以多露点，前胸以不露出胸罩为准吧，你要是愿意走光我也管不了。http://p9.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902678078ab36a99b8http://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267855ab16b3f001http://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902678272b516fbcd8然后画出口袋，这是最后的版型。http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902678269814e3eabc裙子比较简单，直筒或裙摆略大点都可以，腰部都是直的，唯一注意是裙腰比上衣腰长出3厘米左右，这是为了裙子多打点褶，不长出3也行。http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902678389c3df50bc5唯一注意前搭门是延长到如图位置，所以不必用拉链。有一款裙底摆是圆的。版型就这样了。http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902677777c60f221e0http://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267786183632f588纸样裁剪然后裁剪纸样，比较袖笼是否圆顺，侧缝是否等长。再加一句，这件裙子上半身制版没有把侧缝画直，换句话说前片腰省没有转移到侧缝，所以就没有前后侧缝差，也就没必要打侧缝省了。http://p9.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267761f21765cb4bhttp://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267841244973a829http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902678222beb446003http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/152249026786726e53e14dehttp://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267770563414c350http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/152249026777324a2d3b9ac排料裁剪下面我两件一起上图，大家注意分辨，因为款式略做改动。http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267919a808052acchttp://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267751d97af10eechttp://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490268010a899f3ed1fhttp://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267822b21b92b3b2先缝合纱网，然后码边。http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267815a84e59d314http://p9.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267896324aea9c8d素色面料我做个口袋，这是做袋盖http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902678960307c3148f缝合袋盖，一定要圆顺。http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902678378b3b64994e然后把缝份剪剩0.5，用硬卡纸熨烫http://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267841c4274f31b2翻折过来的效果http://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902678728fb82b44c7袋盖夹到两层面料中间固定http://p9.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267919dfd5c089c2http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/152249026790564787dc41chttp://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902678615abf2dc9e1然后做个立体口袋。http://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267831e4ab1b77d9http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/152249026784258c15c934f先做成这样http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902678487f187059eehttp://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/152249026791086641e8ca3http://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/152249026787550d117e4f6然后固定到胸前缝合。http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267924c0ed2b1e4e做完口袋的效果。http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902679511552f260c9http://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267931c601757514http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267887d703f60ae3http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902679547a556e80a1然后缝合前后片肩缝。侧缝http://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267883f31f55859fhttp://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267909643cd82250接下来领子袖笼包边。http://p9.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267945725a1d15achttp://p9.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267842f2793c984e包边后的效果。花色面料没有口袋。http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/152249026783937f3032019http://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/152249026794635b741495chttp://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267871f1aab81e75接下来就是缝合裙子。http://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902679237f0c9f89dbhttp://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902678624a3d5acd94http://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490268103efe0817d06http://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/1522490267955de7394e8c2http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/15224902678995a3e61bce2因为裙子腰部略长，所以先抽点褶使其与上衣腰围等长。http://p3.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/152249026793592e636b31ahttp://p1.pstatp.com/large/pgc-image/152249026789016d96e8cdbhttp://p1.ps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